Going to Argentina?

I realize that most of us in the Northern Hemisphere plan a trip to South America during our winter and their summer. But, for those of you who like to avoid the crowds, or who are planning to ski the Andes, we wanted to throw a couple of hotel choices your way.

Maybe winter would be a good time to visit Buenos Aires for those tango lessons you promised yourself?

In this amazing city, you have so many places in all budget ranges. Then, you have to make the hard choice of neighborhoods: San Telmo, Puerto Madero, Recoleta, Palermo, Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Viejo, Palermo . . . . . . OK, that's enough of the hip Palermo sub-neighborhood choices.

But, one of our favorites was in Palermo Hollywood. You'll truly feel at home at The Home Hotel. A little bit hip, a little bit retro, but all class.

The rooms are stylish, to be sure, and you can have basic, or you can go waaaaaaayyyyy upscale. Like a two-floor suite, with your own private sundeck for tanning your naughty bits and a private pool that is one roll and a bounce away from your bed.

There are great restaurants in the neighborhood, but you'll be happy with the included breakfast and might find it hard to leave at all, since the restaurant and bar do everything well.

Tell them we sent you!
http://www.homebuenosaires.com/

Asian food at the Mercado

One day a year ago, Jennifer and I were headed to the mercado for lunch at one of the loncherias. We were walking by one of the small places and it was filled with Asian guys, with tables loaded with food served family style. It was obvious that they were happy with their food.

Of course, this is one of several places on Cozumel that cater to the cruise ship crews. There was a hand written menu on the wall above the kitchen, and I didn't recognize a single item on the menu except fried rice.

We took the only vacant table and were approached by a young man who asked if we were familiar with the menu items? "No". Do we like seafood? "Oh, Yes"

He then explained they cooked Malaysian and Indonesian which are a balance of sweet, spicy and savory, and Filipino, which was mostly sweet and sour.

We went for an Indonesian dish called bakwan udang. It turned out to be one of the best shrimp dishes I have ever had. Wonderful fried shrimp and vegetable cakes served with an amazing sambal sauce that had us licking the spoon.

bakwan udang & sambal

The sambal sauce is a spicy hot, sweet sauce that has a unique flavor. It burns your mouth, then cools it with the sweetness. Totally addicting.

Fast forward to today's mercado, where the loncherias have been rebuilt and a parking lot installed. On our last visit the restaurant has no menu or name on the exterior. It is the place that is the closest to Rosado Salas.

It's best to go with a small crowd, since the portions are large. Four of us ordered a whole fish in a curry sauce, fried rice and the required bakwan udang. Bring your own beer or settle for refrescos. Definitely bring your appetite.

Open for lunch Monday - Saturday

http://www.mandjphoto.com

Tamarindo Cozumel

My first visits to Cozumel in the mid 90s found me looking for interesting, small places that I considered bargains. Hotel Pepita, Hotel Aguilar and Tamarindo B&B were a few of the places where I stayed.

My favorite was Tamarindo B&B, with it's smooth edges and perfect blending of architectural details and design. This is definitely not your normal place with rectangular rooms and concrete floors.

Tamarindo B&B was unique then, and it still feels that way today. The design and atmosphere are a little bit Mexican and a little bit Greek Islands. That combination is flavored with a healthy dose of European style. Eliane Godement, originally from France,  has created a place that exudes charm, and is very fairly priced.

She serves an amazing B&B style breakfast on the terrace at her Calle 4 norte location.

There are a couple of rooms, a very cool thatch-roof bungalow and four apartments with kitchenettes.

Her second location, on Calle 19 sur one block east of Melgar, features a bungalow, two apartments and a pool.

We enjoyed photographing such an interesting property with distinctive rooms for her new web site.

The Goddess Ix Chel on Cozumel

Every year there is a reenactment of the Mayan crossing from the mainland to Cozumel in order to honor the goddess Ix Chel, the goddess of fertility.  It was tradition for the Mayans to make the pilgrimage  to Cozumel to the temple of Ix Chel at least once during their lifetime, especially for women who were pregnant or wishing to become pregnant. 

After months and months of training, modern day participants rise before dawn and leaving the mainland around 5am make the long journey across the channel arriving to Cozumel mid afternoon in dugout canoes.  It's a long, arduous journey, made more difficult since participants can only wear the typical Mayan dress, so no sunglasses, hats, or sun protection except a white cloth on their head.

Waiting on their arrival, I stood under an intense sun downing free cups of water provided for everyone in order to prevent sun stroke.  I  can only imagine what it was like to row for hours under that same sun.  

I was told stories about women who had become pregnant after attending the ceremony in years past -  even one who had had her tubes tied!  So, women beware!!

The celebration continued into the evening at Chankanab and was a total delight.  Chankanab is built around a beautiful cenote with three Mayan style temples.  I only wish we could have sat closer to the temples but the setting was devine and the lighting and production values were really terrific.  It only happens once a year, which is really a shame, so plan ahead.  You can get tickets for next year here:

http://www.travesiasagradamaya.com.mx/

The Money Bar

We visited The Money Bar last October when we first moved to the island. Great place for the sunset, happy hour drinks and The Red Eye Band, the best cover band on the island.

We visit often to snorkel around the Dzul-ha reef, or to sit under the palms at the small federal park just north of the bar. The snorkeling is usually good, with two spotted eels that are usually seen around the coral heads. Last week, I saw a southern sting ray with a 6' wingspan in 8' of water, and it was swimming toward shore!

We started the Friday night happy hour habit about two months ago. The restaurant has some terrific items on the menu. I particularly like the ceviche.  However, we go for the happy hour, music, sunset and dancing. Usually in that order.

The band starts around 6:00 and the time for conversation is finished. They rock. The guitar player is the real deal on his Fender Strat, putting his spin on famous licks by Santana and Hendrix. The singer struts like Jim Morrison and usually hits the high notes he shoots for.

Another real plus is that Bohemia beer is on the menu. That is good because (I have said it in this space before and I will say it again), Bohemia is, hands down, Mexico's best tasting beer. And, yes, I would take a free supply for plugging their beer, but, no, it has yet to happen. I won't give up.

Sometimes a pro doesn't want to lug around all of their equipment, so some of these photos were shot with the Hipstamatic App for the iPhone and iTouch. With the right lens and film setting, the photos look like the ones that Mom used to take with the Kodak Brownie.

So, here are a few photos from The Money Bar, Hipstamatic and regular.

On the coastal highway, about 2 miles south of Puerto Maya
Live Music - Friday, Saturday and Sunday
Happy Hour:  5:00 pm to 7:00 pm (2 for 1)

See you on Friday!
http://www.mandjphoto.com

Keep watching this space for an all new blog!

Bigger!  Better!  More Info!  More Photos!

Festival El Cedral

The Festival at El Cedral, the small community on the southern part of Cozumel, is a popular event held every spring.

It features music, dancing, horse races, bull fights and a craft fair. We only attended the opening day festivities, but enjoyed the traditional Mayan and Yucatecan dancing.

Here are a few of our favorite photos.

http://www.mandjphoto.com

Taqueria Molina

Sunday morning at the Mercado.

Jennifer's favorite place on the island - for breakfast.

After six straight days of cereal and bananas at home, a plate of sopes, tacos, gorditas or panuchos really hits the spot. You choices for toppings include, but are not limited to: chicken, carnitas, carne asado, rajas en crema, chorizo y papas or chicharron. I love the green sauce, which tastes like jalapeño and tomates verde with the perfect amount of Sunday morning heat and flavor.

Pair a plate of your favorites with a healthy agua fresca such as piña, melon or sandia. Unless it was a rough Saturday night, then you might want a sugar cane sweetened Coca-Cola. With luck, Mexico will remain a country free of high fructose corn syrup refrescos.

Chorizo y papes sope, carne asada and rajas con crema tacos and a pollo gordita